Tours from Cafayate: what to do around the valley

Salta's tourism ministry ranks Cafayate second among the province's tourist centres, and much of that pull comes from the country around it.⁷ Within a short drive you reach sand dunes, waterfalls, rock art, family wineries, pre-Hispanic ruins and rock formations you will not forget. A day trip from Salta shows you the gorge and the town; a longer stay shows you the valley.

Cafayate tourism is built on small operators, and that is a strength. The Red de Turismo Campesino, a network of rural families, offers half-day and full-day activities and stays of more than two nights, from craft workshops to walks and work in the vineyards.⁶ Salta's tourism ministry advises visitors to hire only officially licensed services, which it lists on its website.⁸ Check that list before handing over a deposit.

Most outings fall into clear groups. Close to town are the dunes, El Divisadero and the vineyard parajes, easy by bike, taxi or on foot. South lies Tolombón and, over the provincial border in Tucumán, the Quilmes ruins. North along Route 40 are Animaná, San Carlos and the Quebrada de las Flechas.⁹ Pick one group per day and you will not spend your holiday in a car.

A bike tour in Cafayate is the classic way to link wineries without a driver. The vineyard parajes make good targets. Yacochuya lies 6 km northwest of the centre, among wineries with a view over the valley.¹² San Luis, 5 km to the west, is a quiet lane of fincas where a river, a shaded acequia and a stretch of Inca road run side by side.¹⁰ Rent a bike in town, ride out in the cool morning and taste on the way back.

Serious riders have bigger options. Salta's tourism ministry calls mountain biking in the Quebrada de las Conchas one of the most sought-after routes among cyclists worldwide.¹⁸ A mountain bike rally called La Vuelta de las Bodegas, its first edition set for 8 and 9 November, uses circuits of 20 and 40 km past the main wineries.^19,20 For a multi-day ride, the valley loop links Cachi, Molinos and Cafayate on Route 40 through the Quebrada de las Flechas.⁹

Horses are the other traditional way to cross the valley. In Salta, horse riding is open to people from 6 to 90 years old in good physical shape.⁵ One listed ride from Cafayate heads to El Toldito in 2 hours, welcomes all levels and keeps groups to 8 riders. At the dunes, the province suggests rides by moonlight.¹ Wear long trousers and closed shoes, and tell the guide honestly how much you have ridden.

On the way to Quilmes, Tolombón is a small village 14 km from Cafayate.¹⁴ At the foot of the Sierra del Cajón nearby lie the remains of a pre-Hispanic town, considered the political capital of the Calchaquí nations and the seat of the chief Juan Calchaquí.⁴⁰ Ask locally for directions or a guide before you set out to find the ruins.

Tolombón also keeps unusual traditions. In January it holds the Añapa festival, named after a drink made from the fruit of the carob tree.⁵⁶ Carob is algarrobo in Spanish. The village makes a short, quiet stop on a southbound day.

Combining Tolombón and Quilmes into one outing is the natural plan. Leave Cafayate in the morning, stop in Tolombón on the way, spend the late morning at Quilmes before the midday heat, and return in the afternoon. If you have no car, licensed agencies in Cafayate sell the trip; check the ministry's registry first.⁸

For the big view, a Cafayate company registered on the province's experiences website flies hot air balloons over the vineyards.¹⁷ One listed balloon flight lasts 3 hours with a small group limited to 8 people, from $250. Flights depend on calm air, so leave a spare morning in your plans in case the first one is called off.

Night outings are the other way to see the valley differently. One licensed night-sky photography experience in Cafayate runs in the first hours of the night and at dawn, and asks guests to bring warm clothes.⁴⁶ Even without a tour, step away from the town lights on a clear night and the sky over the vineyards is spectacular.

And for something completely different, Cafayate has an 18-hole golf course designed by Bob Cupp that hosts national and international tournaments.⁶³ Whatever you choose, use the town's sightseeing bus or a short walk for the closest sights and keep a car or a licensed excursion for the long days north and south. The valley rewards slow travel more than a checklist.